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La Aventura Panamericana – 7th November to 7th December 2006 We are taking part in John Brown’s 4x4 Adventure Drive through Mexico and Central America. We are due to cover 7,300 miles during the next month. There are about 25 crews from the Netherlands, Switzerland, France, Argentina, South Africa, the USA and Britain in vehicles ranging from Land Rovers to Toyota Land Cruisers to big American Chevys. Our 2.5 litre Nissan Navara Pick-up is relatively under-powered compared to most crews, but speed is not crucial because this is a non-competitive event. Sunday 5th November It is bonfire night and we are flying to America! We left home at 5 am to catch a flight from Newcastle to Heathrow, then to Los Angeles and finally San Diego. In total we were travelling for 24 hours. On the 11 hour flight to L.A. the pilot introduced himself to us. A fellow Virgin pilot who we competed against on the Marathon two weeks previously had told him that we would be on the flight! It made me feel very important (but it didn’t make Paul feel important). The long haul flight was bearable because we were treated to fully reclining seats which also act as a bed. Having rallied Saabs in the distant past, I was interested to board a Saab aeroplane for our flight from L.A. to San Diego. Having arrived at our hotel we managed to stay awake for another 5 hours so we could go to bed at the proper time, hopefully overcoming any potential jet lag. By the way, the temperature in the evening was 76 degrees. I dread to think what it will be like by day – thank goodness our Pick-up has air-con. Monday 6th November San Diego, California lies close to the Mexican border, so after a good night’s sleep we took a taxi to the crossing point at Tijuana which is the most visited border city with the U.S. 35 million people annually cross this border, Tijuana being Mexico’s 4th largest city. At the border we experienced the huge differences between First and Third World countries when it took us 4 hours to complete all the formalities and retrieve our vehicle which had arrived by container some 3 weeks previously. Fortunately we bumped into a rep. from the shipping company otherwise we might still be there. We then drove down Highway 1 for 80km/50 miles to the Pacific resort of Ensenada which is a popular destination for week-enders from San Diego. We booked into the rally hotel where we collected our Road Books, met up with our fellow travelling companions and listened to a Briefing session by our leader, John Brown. Day One Tuesday 7th November Ensenada – San Quentin 429km/266 miles We soon realised this wasn’t going to be holiday, as we had to leave our hotel for the start of this Adventure Drive at 0645 hrs. The reason was safety based, as there is only 12 hours of daylight and it is considered too dangerous to drive at night as all manner of man and beast can roam around without lights. Each day we were given a suggested departure time, and each crew had to sign out and sign back in at the end of the day. In this way the organisers could keep track of everybody. When we left Ensenada it soon became evident why Mexicans migrate to the U.S. As with all Third World countries, government corruption, drug-trafficking, crime and poverty are a way of life. Thank goodness we live in a civilised country. We noticed several scrap yards over-flowing with shabby cars – in fact most of the cars on the road looked fit only for the scrap-yard. Obviously no MOT’s here. Mexico is the world’s 6th largest producer of oil. This was reflected in pump prices which work out at around £1.17 for a gallon of diesel! We started with an easy 143km/90 mile drive on asphalt prior to turning onto a dirt road which eventually deteriorated into a seriously rough 4x4 section where it took us 1½hrs to cover 20km/12 miles. We had to engage low ratio 1st gear to crawl over steep bolder-strewn tracks. It is truly amazing that any vehicle is capable of conquering such atrocious terrain. If today is an example of what we can expect over the next month, then our Nissan Navara will probably end up as a heap of scrap metal. No wonder all the local cars look fit for the scrap heap. A deviation along a dead-end track took us up to 9000’ to an observatory where it is possible to see the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of California on a clear day. Not only was it a clear day, but even at this height it was hotter than an English summer. I know this is a 4x4 Adventure Drive, but it is always a relief to regain an asphalt road which took us to one of the few hotels in the area for our night’s accommodation. Day Two Wednesday 8th Nov. San Quentin – Loreto 915km/571 miles At 915km this was the longest day on the whole event with a recommended departure time of 6 am. There was a slightly shorter optional route totalling 824km/515 miles which we decided to take. This was because Arne Hertz, who was driving the 48 hour vehicle, and is pehaps best known as Stig Blomquist’s co-driver during Saab’s rallying heyday, had reported back that the gravel road was far worse than on the initial route survey, and that it had taken him 5 hours to cover a 275 km section. We reckoned that an estimated 11 hr day on the alternative route was quite long enough. We headed south on Highway 1 before turning inland to climb onto a central plateau where the desert landscape gradually became populated with many varieties of cacti including the strange twisted cirios which are unique to this part of Baja California. We drove through a strange region of huge boulders interspersed by cacti and crouching elephant trees. It was all very weird. This area is largely unpopulated by either humans, animals or birds. Apparently it is only at night that the desert becomes more active, as it is too hot by day. Having motored for four hours we were thankful to eventually find a place to stop for fuel and refreshments. A warm ham & cheese bun filled with avocado and salad tasted heavenly. Heading south again we crossed the 28 degree parallel which marks the state border between Baja California North and Baja California Sur. We advanced our clocks by 1 hour. Again we experienced very little traffic, although we did encounter a number of huge intimidating lorries, similar to the one in that movie starring Dennis Hopper. It was difficult to overtake because they were travelling at an alarming speed, and you can’t rely on the road markings. It is also confusing that vehicles use their offside indicator to invite you to overtake, although this could also mean they are turning across the road. After another couple of hours we arrived in the small oasis village of San Ignacio where we happened upon another 4x4 crew at a roadside café where we were able to have a very welcome snack lunch costing £5 per person. We then continued working our way across the peninsular until we reached the Gulf of California where our GPS indicated that we had dropped below sea level at one point. The desert landscape was left behind as we traversed the mountains which split the tapering length of Lower California. We were treated to some rugged scenery along the coast interspered with lovely coves. The ever present cacti still rose from the terrain, like soldiers of differing heights, reminding us that we were indeed in Mexico. Paul, meantime, had bought himself a cowboy hat to complete the scene. We didn’t reach our hotel until a little after dark at 6 pm. We now understood why John Brown wasn’t keen for us to drive at night. The roads have no cats eyes or white lines defining the edges, making it difficult to see where the road actually is. The road surfaces are unpredictible, with many vicious, unmarked ‘sleeping policemen’ which could easily wreck the vehicle’s suspension. We congratulated ourselves that we were not the only ones who hadn’t taken the longer route, anticipating that we wouldn’t have arrived until very late that evening. We also felt that there was no contingency within the time schedule if things went wrong e.g. by getting stuck or having a puncture, apart from there being no time to stop for refreshments. So we felt quite pleased with ourselves. That evening, with night-time temperatures much warmer than previously experienced, a buffet dinner was served at the poolside. When we retired to our room at around 9pm, ten crews had still not checked in. We didn’t envy them at all. We learnt that Mexico is essentially desert in the north and tropical in the south. It has 10,000 km of coastline, mostly bordering the Pacific but also in the Gulf and Caribbean Sea. From June to October most of the coasts are struck by hurricans, mainly in the tropics, although there had been a hurrican causing extensive damage not far from our hotel a few weeks prior to our arrival. In fact Loreto used to be the capital of Baja California before it was wiped out by a hurrican in 1830. Our GPS indicated that we actually covered 854km/533 miles at an average of 90kph/56mph. Our top speed was 144kph/90mph. Not bad for a 2.5 litre, fullen laden diesel weighing about 2¼ tons. Day Three Thursday 9th Nov.Loreto – San Jose del Cabo 562km/351miles Everybody survived yesterday’s longer route, although Tim Riley, alias ‘Jingers’, the back-up mechanic, didn’t get in until midnight. We left quite late this morning, at 7 am for a most interesting 100km/62mile drive on a dusty dirt road which wound its way through the impressive canyon scenery of the towering Sierra de la Giganta. Here the desert vistas of flat topped mesas and cardon cacti are straight out of the Wild West. The cacti resembled giant hands protruding from the ground. We were amazed, in such a rugged and remote location, to arrive in the tiny village of San Javier, tucked in the bottom of a steep-walled valley. This settlement of 120 people boasts one of the best preserved missions in America. The original baroque alter dating from 1699 still exists. This mission took 59 years to build, with materials brought in by donkey. It was here that we were able to have our first coffee break in a shack next to the mission. It was just about drinkable. Some amendments by Arne Hertz to our tulip road book warned us that, from this settlement, we had to negotiate several river crossings, 11 of which he graded as very rough or very, very rough. He wasn’t kidding. We literally had to tip-toe across them, again marvelling at the capability of our 4x4 vehicle. We only attempted these in the safe knowledge that the route survey vehicle had got through. We would not have liked to have been in the initial route recce vehicle going through for the first time. This area was crisscrossed by the Baja 1000 rally route, and whilst we saw some arrows, we thankfully didn’t actually meet any of the vehicles. Talking of rallies, we wondered how our friends were getting on back home on the Rally of the Tests, an event on which we had either competed in, or marshalled on, over the last few years. Our excitement for the day was now over. We rejoined Highway 1 for the long journey to the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsular. En route we passed through Cd Constitucion, the biggest town between Ensensada and La Paz, where we spotted shoe shops, clothes shops and even a new car showroom. Wow. We stopped for an accepable snack lunch before carrying on, across the Tropic of Cancer to our destination for the next two nights, just outside Mexico’s most exclusive tourist destination, Los Cabos. Day Four Friday 10th November – Rest Day The reception area of this five star hotel is in the shape of an archway which links two sides of the hotel. On one side of the open archway is the drop-off area for vehicles, on the other side the open ocean. It emphasised that this was the land of sun, with 360 days of sunshine per annum. We were pleased to enjoy a day of rest. We drove into nearby Cabo San Lucas which was a sleepy fishing village in 1970 but has grown into an expensive international resort full of N. Americans who come for the winter sun, the world class fishing, championship golf courses or to find a retirement paradise. A lot of jewellery shops were indicative of Mexico’s vast mineral deposits. The large marina was full of very expensive boats, with a cruise ship in the bay. We took a short boat trip to look at a distinctive natural Arch, which is a rocky window sculpted by the sea. This was presumably why our hotel reception area was in the shape of an arch. The Arch is the meeting point between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez. There is also a pinnacle of rock called Pelican Rock which is home, not only to these unusual birds, but also to vast shoals of tropical fish which we were able to view from our glass bottomed boat. It is also an ideal place for snorkelling. On our way back to the marina there were various boating activities and paragliding taking place. It offered a stark contrast to the area through which we had driven since leaving Ensenada, reiterating that wealth is concentrated both geographically and socially in small groups. We managed to buy a digital camera, so that we could more effectively capture some of the sights of our trip. We spent the afternoon by the hotel pool which was adjacent to the beach. We had been told not to swim in the ocean because of the huge waves and strong currents which sweep away several tourists each year. That evening crews were taken by coach to a local Mexican style restaurant. We discovered that Los Cabos, an oasis in the desert, is also known as Lands End. What a contrast to our own Lands End, starting point for Le Jog in December, a rally on which I have competed every year for the last ten years. We will be in Costa Rica when Le Jog finishes at John O’Groats early next month. Day Five Saturday 11th November San Jose del Cabo – Los Mochis 269km/168miles Although only a short motoring day, we still had to leave the hotel at 7am to head north up the eastern side of the peninsular to catch a ferry at 1pm to the ‘mainland’. We started on a sandy dirt road which hugged the coast and was punctuated with wild camping spots and lots of large flying insects. We re-crossed the Tropic of Cancer and re-joined Highway 1 en route to La Paz which is now the capital of Baja California Sur. We managed to have the Pick-up washed for the first time whilst we satisfied our hunger at McDonald’s. Then it was onto the ferry for a 7 hour crossing, followed by a short drive to our hotel in Los Mochis where we arrived around 10.30 pm. Day Six Sunday 12th Nov. Los Mochis – Copper Canyon 393km/245miles We feared the ferry yesterday might have been no better than a cattle truck. However, it was an old Stena ferry and was quite Okay. We secured a cabin and managed a short sleep. Arne Hertz had reported back that this was a tough day, as most of it was on gravel (247km/154miles). He had left at 6 am, motoring for 10 hours with just ½ hr maximum break. We planned to leave at 7am but discovered we had a soft tyre. Jingers helped us to change the wheel and reminded us how to operate the High-Lift jack. His Spanish-speaking companion then took us to a tyre depot to get the puncture repaired, despite it being 7.15am on a Sunday morning. We would not have found this place on our own, as Los Mochis, an uninspiring place, is a largest town of 200,000 people, and there aren’t many street names. We were the last to leave town at 8am, resolving to catch and overtake the rest of the gang as soon as possible. We achieved this by early p.m. despite the extremely rough gravel mountain roads which were mostly single track, very twisty and impossibly steep in places, requiring first gear (albeit only in two-wheel drive) a lot of the time. In fact our 2.5 litre diesel struggled to get up many of the inclines, which would not have presented a problem to those in 3litre/4litre V6/V8 machines. We were heading north-east into an area of rocky mountains split by a network of deep gorges, our destination being Copper Canyon which is four times bigger than the Grand Canyon in the U.S.A. Most sane, sensible people take the spectacular train journey to Copper Canyon, the rail system being completed in 1961. 4x4 Adventurers, though, take the tough driving route which caused soar hands, stiff shoulders and a strained neck at the end of the day. The train journey is reckoned to be one of the greatest in the world. There was, of course, nowhere to stop for lunch so we shared a banana and some crisps en route to the rim of the Urique Canyon where there are simply breathtaking views. Around 3pm we did come across a very respectable hotel in a tiny village where we gratefully indulged in a light snack. It was then more atrocious gravel roads before finally arriving, just before nightfall, at our hotel which was built into the rock face, perched on a ledge, overlooking the canyon. Our bedroom balcony literally overhung the edge of an enormous drop. We had been driving at around 6,000 feet – 8,000 feet all day, and although we were still enjoying brilliant blue skies, the air was cool & crisp, much more to our liking. Once again Jingers didn’t arrive until 9pm. He had been sorting out some fuel vaporisation problems on one of the vehicles. By the time we went to bed, though, the crew still hadn’t turned up. There were many worried faces. They had either got lost (they didn’t have a trip-meter) or they had encountered more problems. It would have been no joke, driving on those tortuous mountain roads at night. We assumed they must have slept in the car. Day Seven Monday 13th Nov. Copper Canyon-Hidalgo del Parral 520km/323miles Last night there were millions of stars glittering over the canyon, and this morning we watched the sun rise. We were pleased to hear that the ‘missing’ crew had turned up at around 10.30pm. They had spent a long time trying to find fuel. Indeed, everybody was low on fuel, the difficult terrain causing fuel consumption figures to plummet to an all time low. Joanna Brown’s vehicle had suffered the worst, with a split fuel pipe, but they had managed to borrow spare fuel from other crews to get them to the hotel. We had to scrape some ice from the windscreen before setting off today. We were pleased to be back on an asphalt road which took us to a nearby community where we, thankfully, bought some fuel and some provisions for lunch. In one of the lay-bys with a viewing point, a local lady was selling her knitted gifts which typify the Tarahumara culture. It reminded us of the Peruvian region. We bought a colourful pouch for our newly acquired digital camera. The highlight of the day was a detour towards Batopilas on a gravel road that Arne described as one of the most fantastic he had ever seen. He was right. The single track gravel road clung to the side of the rock-face, with un-guarded drops through many hairpin bends to the bottom of the canyon, with spectacular views. We even met an army wagon packed solid with soldiers coming up towards us. We had to reverse to a section where he could squeeze past. We made sure we kept to the mountain face rather than the edge with the drop. This detour of 90km/54miles took us 3 hours including 20 minutes for a picnic stop and to take photos. It was a truly memorable drive. Having arrived at our motel, we realised that we had reached the northern-most point of our trip, as tomorrow we would be heading south eastwards. We were amused to notice during dinner, which was barely edible, that the locals, who were sitting in a separate area, were still wearing their Cowboy hats. Day Eight Tuesday 14th Nov Parral-Zacatecas 724km/452miles We left at 6.30 am for a long day’s drive, all on good asphalt on fast roads across an empty desert which lay on a plateau about 6,000 feet above sea level. We entered the state of Durango where we advanced our clocks by one hour. In some of the small communities where there were many vicious speed bumps which slowed vehicles down to a standstill, local children stood by, hoping to sell their wares. They were always friendly, cheerful, and cleanly dressed despite their poverty and appalling living conditions. We crossed the Tropic of Cancer again as we drove south-eastwards, and visited a movie set where many Hollywood Westerns have been made. Paul was in his element, wearing his cowboy hat and acting John Wayne. Passing through the city of Durango we managed to have a shopping spree in Wallmarts, our first real opportunity to buy some proper picnic food and even fresh bread. Picnic spots in Mexico are non-existent, so we just pulled off the busy road in some shade to satisfy our appetites. The only place of interest during the afternoon was a short detour to an area with peculiar shaped columns of basalt, supposedly like organ pipes, where many movies have been shot. Our real treat for the day was arriving at our hotel in Zacatecas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as it is a rebuilt bullfighting arena. Disappointment soon followed, however, when Jayne realised she had left her wash bag at the previous motel. Disaster! Paul had already left his watch behind some days previously. Before dinner that evening we were led through the streets on foot, preceded by a band and a donkey, followed by waitresses serving tequila. Zacatecas, having enjoyed the benefits of a silver mining past, has some fine buildings, the first we had seen on this trip. Day Nine Wed. 15th Nov. Zacatecas-Guanajuato (366km/227m) We were able to appreciate our truly remarkable hotel. We weren’t due to check out until mid-morning, to give us an opportunity to explore Zacatecas, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fortunes of silver mining have bestowed an architectural grandeur on this city. Many travellers believe it to be the most pleasant town in this part of Mexico. The ornate cathedral is the city’s centre piece, with a very busy façade and an incredible interior. On our way out of the city we detoured to a museum situated on a hill, giving panaramic views of the city. We could clearly see our hotel built around the amphitheatre. Not wishing to be out-done by her husband, Jayne bought herself a Cowgirl hat. Heading south-eastwards it was evident that this area, known as the Colonial Heartland of Mexico, is affluent compared to Northern Mexico. At one point, coming in the opposite direction, were some service vehicles associated with La Carrera Panamericana, the road race which always claims some fatalities. We stopped for another picnic in the interesting little town of Lagos de Moreno. Jayne was particularly hungry, not having eaten for 24 hours due to a tummy upset. On our way through Leon, a sprawling city of over one million inhabitants, we stopped off at a Nissan dealership to have a broken wheel stud replaced. This had been caused by loose wheel nuts. Before we arrived at our destination we had difficulty in overtaking a number of huge wagons with long trailers attached. They were travelling at around 70 mph. We had had an easy day and were staying two nights at a five star hotel so that we could sample the delights of another UNESCO World Heritage Site the following day. Day Ten Thurs. 16th Nov. Rest Day Guanajuato The meal last night was awful. The soup was alright but we couldn’t stomach the main course so we retrieved a couple of bananas from the car and ate these at the dinner table, which we were sharing with Tom & Rosalie Gatsonides and the rest of the Dutch gang. We were joined that evening by four Americans who had participated on the 2005 African Adventure. They had arrived by private plane! Jim & Steve, the ‘missing’ crew, had a scary moment yesterday when a wheel nearly fell off their rather tatty GMC which was not suitably prepared for this event. They somehow managed to get towed to a repairer but decided to return home. As newcomers to John Brown’s events, they probably didn’t realise quite how tough the going is. Also, age was not on their side. We think Steve was probably a hippie in the 1960’s, and Jim was probably his Dad! This Rest Day proved to be the most interesting and varied day so far. It started off with a really good breakfast which is turning out to be the best meal of the day. After all, breakfast is supposed to be the most important of all meals. We drove to an incredible circular church perched on a hilltop overlooking the surrounding area. Mounted on top of the church is a huge statue of Jesus Christ, much like the one overlooking Rio de Janeiro. It is one of the most amazing monuments we have ever seen. We then took a really interesting route back to Guanajuato which is a fascinating town. It is built over a maze of tunnels which we assumed were a relic from the silver mining era, but in fact they were constructed in 1996 to unsuccessfully alleviate traffic congestion. The tunnels were complete with junctions, signposts and speed bumps, and you were even allowed to park cars. They reminded us of a coal mine we visited in Sweden (or was it Finland?) where a whole community existed 1 km underground. Anyway, back to Guanajuato. There are many colourful buildings in narrow streets, and the colonial architecture is simply stunning. We bumped into a group of our companians, including the four Americans who had flown in. They suggested we should all take taxis to a hilltop restaurant for lunch where we had an excellent meal, our first for over a week. We even sampled a type of cactus which tasted much like artichoke. The weather had been perfect all day, not too hot, probably due to the altitude of some 2000 metres/ 6,500 feet. Whilst we were enjoying ourselves, Jingers was fettling the vehicles, the main problems being inaccurate and unpredictable trip meters. For dinner we were taken in small coaches back into the heart of town for an excellent meal at a popular restaurant right opposite the magnificent theatre, which is one of the most prominent buildings in town. We were seated at the window end of a long table on the ground floor right opposite the steps to the theatre where several well-behaved youngsters were gathered. Some were recently graduated university students. Various hawkers came to our window, and we had a lot of fun with one of them, Carlos, who was selling some very nice ladies wraps, throw-overs and rugs. He succeeded in securing some good sales from our table, which we were again sharing with the Dutchies. We were served some excellent food although we weren’t that hungry after our lunch. We were very content to retire at a reasonable time in readiness for another early start the following day. Day Eleven Friday 17th Nov. Guanajuato-Mexico City 568km/355m This was a long day so we left at 6.30 am and just kept driving through indifferent territory with, at times, a lot of traffic. There were two main attractions to visit en route to Mexico City, but not enough time to do both. We opted to visit the Nevado de Toluca volcano, but it was a mad dash to gain access to the gravel road leading up to the crater lake, as it closed at 3pm. We didn’t arrive until 3.30pm, having only stopped to re-fuel (we had to pay for some toilet paper at the loo’s – hitherto there hadn’t been any), and a quick picnic lunch. Fortunately the barrier was raised for us, and we proceeded to climb up to 4,252m/13,950 feet. We drove right up to the edge of the crater lake. It was amazing. We could just imagine that James Bond film when the lake parted to reveal H.Q. It was then a quick about-turn for the final drive into Mexico City which we were not looking forward to. Mexico City has a population of 20 million people, more than the combined populations of Australia & New Zealand. Great Britain has around 60 million people, so you can imagine what a huge city it is. As expected the traffic was dreadful. Several sky-scraper buildings of various shapes towered above us as we fought our way into the historic centre where our hotel for the next three nights is situated. THREE nights in Mexico City? How dreadful, we thought. The best thing that evening for Jayne was being re-united with her wash bag which had been safely delivered to the hotel. Happy Days!
Day 22 Tuesday 28th Nov. Rest Day - Belize City We have learnt a little more about Belize and also spent a fantastic day on the water, getting a year’s ration of fresh air in just one day. Over the years Belize sufferred from policitcal squabbles between Mexico, Spain and Britain. In 1862 Queen Victoria granted colonial status to British Honduras. In 1964 it became self-governing and in 1973 changed its name to Belize. In 1981 it became an independent country. It has an ethnically diverse population but it is an English speaking nation. The Chinese, for example, came here because they could buy British passports, thus gaining access to the U.K. Belize is a natural environment both above and below the water. The barrier reef is so large that astronauts can see it from space. It offers some of the best diving in the world. There are several small islands, known as cayes, some of which are home to fishermen, some are uninhabited, some are mangrove swamps while other have been turned into small resorts. Palm trees fringe the coastline, providing welcome shade. It is a world of disappearing rainforests and coral reefs. One fifth of the country is protected by nature reserves which protect an endless variety of precious wildlife, from colourful parrots to the elusive jaguar. The proximity of reef to rainforest makes Belize unique. The climate is sub-tropical with an average annual temperature of 80 degrees F. So much for the background. Jayne didn’t fancy snorkelling, and in view of the expected temperature of 97 degrees F, we took to the water in a small motor launch with driver, in an effort to keep cool. We were accompanied by a lady participant who explained that she spent the first 20 years of her life living in a small one-horse town in South Africa where the horse had died! She was good fun. We explored the islands, our driver pointing out various points of interest, including one island which had been split in two by a recent hurrican. In San Pedro we stopped off for a welcome drink, noting that the dusty streets were full of, not cars, but golf buggies. Our pilot then took us to another small island to a fish restaurant where we were soon joined by another couple from our group. They had been snorkelling, playing with, not only dolphins but sharks and even stingrays, the very fish which killed Steve Hogan earlier in the year. We couldn’t believe it. The lady explained how one particular stingray attached itself to her body, only saying how slimy it felt! Apparently sharks are unlikely to attack humans in these waters because of all the other delicious fish around. I certainly would not like to put this to the test. We contented ourselves with eating lobster and grilled red snapper for lunch which were exceedingly good. We thoroughly enjoyed our day – the best so far. We could see why young couples come here to get married. It is a tropical paradise. Day 23 Wed. 29th Nov. Belize City – Flores (Guatemala) 368km/230m Another 6.30am start saw crews heading for the border into Guatemala. We didn’t know what to expect. Belize, in comparison to Mexico, was quite civilised, comparatively speaking. In Guatemala, though, it was back to dirt, squalor and, for the first time in over three weeks, muddy tracks after some overnight rain. We saw women washing their clothes in the river, hanging them out over fences to dry. They couldn’t even afford a washing line. People were living in wooden huts, some built on 7’ high stilts to overcome flooding, in conditions that we, in England, would consider unsuistable for animals. There really can be no excuse for such filth. We didn’t realise at the time, but there was a representative from the Guatemalan Tourist Agency awaiting our arrival at the border. He was to accompany us throughout our tour, together with an armed police vehicle! Apparently robberies and assaults on tourists are quite common, and we were to encounter a number of military/police checks along the roads. Our overnight accommodation was again in individual chalets in the middle of a rainforest, but this time the facilities were rather more modern than anticipated, thank goodness. We again dined in an open area comprising just a roof, no windows. Presumably when it rains here it just falls straight from the sky. Day 24 Thurs. 30th Nov. Flores – Panajachel 502km/312m An interesting unfolded after leaving the hotel at 6.15 a.m. Firstly we caught a ferry across the Rio de la Pasion, but this was no ordinary ferry. The vessel took twelve 4x4’s or one heavy lorry and a few cars, and was powered by an outboard motor operated by a man sitting in a bath tub attached to the side of the ferry. To get the balance right meant maneouvring the lorry backwards and forwards after the ferry set sail. The ramps were also two far apart even for lorries to straddle, so there was a hefty step up to gain access. Just as well we had good ground clearance. It was fascinating to watch. Once off the ferry we enjoyed three hours of really good, fast, interesting driving. The local inhabitants were dressed quite colourfully, the women folk skilfully carrying bright water containers and shopping baskets on their heads. Even the children were carrying tubs of corn on their heads. It is a mystery how they manage to do this. In a shopping plaza protected by armed policemen, we stopped briefly to buy our picnic, anxious to press on as we had been warned of extensive roadworks resulting in a 10hr driving day. We were held up twice, for ¾hr then for 1½ hrs due to landslides. We made some use of this time by eating our picnic. There was a scramble amongst us 4x4’s to be first away once the road had been opened – nobody wanted to eat dust for the next hour. By grasping opportunities as they occurred, we managed to be first away on both occasions, staying ahead of the following pack for the next 3 hours despite our lack of power and some extremely steep uphill hairpin sections. The only person to overtake us was His Brownship who inadvertently went through a red light at which we had stopped. Having driven our Pick-up flat out all afternoon, I felt as though I had taken part in a rally by the time we reached our hotel just before darkness at 5.45pm. Paul was not best pleased, feeling that we had upset some of our fellow travellers. However, we found out at dinner that this wasn’t the case. Day 25 Friday 1st Dec. Panajachel-Antigua 183km/114m We were able to fully appreciate last night’s hotel at breakfast time. The hotel is reminiscent of an Alpine mountain lodge with dark wooden beams and furniture to match. It is located beside Lake Atitlan which spreads out like a carpet of blue with mist-covered volcanoes in the background. In addition it is surrounded by beautiful botanical gardens full of roses, hydrangeas and many other flowering shrubs typical, in many ways, of an English cottage garden. The hotel is in a truly idyllic setting. We encountered so many fascinating things today, it is impossible to remember them all. We took an optional route around Lake Atitlan, first going through Solota which was bursting at the seams with market stall holders, all of whom were dressed in colourful traditional costumes. It was then onto a gravel road, passing through other villages where, in one instance, women were gathered around a common area washing their clothes (don’t ever complain again when your washing machine breaks down). Locals were pre-occupied, going about their daily business. They carry everything either on their heads or on their backs, some bent double with the weight of firewood neatly tied up in bundles. We even saw one women carrying a long branch on her head. This is one of the problems in Guatemala, the damage being caused by deforestation. We had some superb views of the lake and the three volcanoes, witnessing the devastation that hit this area last year when heavy rainstorms triggered massive mudslides, washing away roads & villages and claiming 1,000 victims. It was sad to see people shovelling great piles of rubble into sacks, then carrying them on their backs to a waiting pick-up vehicle. The soil, though, is very productive, being full of valuable minerals left behind after volcanic eruptions. We saw terraces and plots full of peas, cabbages, onions, avocados and various fruits. There were acres and acres of corn, their national diet. We drove through banana and coffee plantations all dripping with produce. We even drove up the slopes of Volcano Acatenago to a height of 2,500m/8,200 feet on a dusty narrow track. Upon our arrival in Antigua, once the capital until ruined after an 18th century earthquake, we noticed long queues of people outside the banks which were garded by police officers equipped with pump-action sub-machine guns. We soon learnt, though, that the ‘gunfire’ we heard later was in fact fireworks which tend to be a national pastime. We just found time to take a quick look around the shops which don’t have any windows, presumably for security reasons and to keep the heat out. There were some wonderful bags, purses and clothes made out of colourful fabrics. Our hotel was in another unusual setting, having been constructed within the remains of a monastery and is widely regarded as one of the finest hotels anywhere in the Americas. Day 26 Sat. 2nd December Antigua Guatemala-Ruinas de Copan 313km/195m We headed eastwards skirting the lower slopes of Volcan Agua on a dirt road where we met the locals walking to work in the fields. They were laden down with bundles of, presumably, provisions & equipment. Some of the better-off had horses, many of them so thin you could see their ribs. We could tell when we were approaching the end of a dirt road and the beginning of a tarmac road leading to a town, because we generally had to drive through a rubbish tip. These Third World countries do not understand the word ‘recycling’. The recycling that we all do is a waste of time, here they stick it in a truck, drive it up the mountain and tip it over the edge. We encountered quite a lot of traffic on the outskirts of Guatemala City, noting that all the shops had counters protected by steel grills. Crime must be a serious problem round here. We were told that drug trafficking is a serious problem, hence the military checks on all roads leading north towards Mexico and thence the U.S.A. Once east of the city we were back on secondary gravel roads across the highlands, climbing to 2,600m/8,500 feet with some fine views along the way. On one particularly rough section where we had slowed down to conserve the car, two other 4x4’s overtook us. However, we were soon in the lead again when they dithered over some route amendments in a small town. We then had a dice on a superb gravel road, Paul flinging the Pick-up sideways round corners as though we were on a special stage. So much for accusing me of mis-treating the car a few days earlier. It took us about an hour to complete border formalities between Guatemala and Honduras, which is what we had to come to expect. Although we weren’t too impressed when we first entered Guatemala, overall the country is much better than Mexico which can only be described as a rural slum. Guatemala has some outstanding scenery, the local inhabitants wear some fabulous fabrics and work extremely hard in the fields. They have a really tough existence but appear to be fairly content with their lot. Day 27 Sunday 3rd December Copan-‘Tegus’ 438km/270m Arne Hertz had reported back that one of the 4x4 sections was impassable and the other was ‘no fun’, so we opted to take the mostly asphalt route which did include 37km of gravel through some really backward villages. The locals gawped in amazement as we picked out way past them. They were obviously not used to seeing vehicles of any kind. We soon hit the main road leading to the capital city of ‘Tegus’. This is a very wide road with no lane markings and was full of lorries overtaking three abreast. As most other drivers drive in the middle of the road, and with few overtaking opportunities, this made Our immediate impression of Honduras was that it is slightly more advanced than Guatemala where the illiteracy rate is 60%. Honduras is the second largest Central American republic yet its population is less than the smallest country, neighbouring El Salvador. We simply used Honduras as a transport section, finding it very non-descript. Inland the mountainous terrain creates natural obstacles to easy travel. The obvious destination for visitors is the northern Caribbean coast, but this was not on our route. In 1998 Hurricane Mitch caused extension damage to all parts of the country. While the physical damage has been cleaned up, the economic and social impact continues to ripple throughout the region. Having reached ‘Tegus’ we were delighted to discover that we were staying in a lovely, modern hotel. Modern hotels are wonderful. We enjoyed an excellent meal that evening. Day 28 Monday 4th December ‘Tegus’- Granada 472km/293m All being well, this time next week we will arrive home. You know you’ve been away a long time when you run out of toothpaste. We were one of the first from our group to hit the road, anxious to beat the traffic and reach the border between Honduras and Nicaragua as soon as possible, as it was 200km/120 miles away. We made good progress. Once across the border we stepped back in time again. There were horses and carts, and the tarmac road was full of really deep potholes. At one point some poor lads were filling in the ruts to earn some money from grateful motorists. Other locals were selling items at the roadside. There was even a man selling live parrots. As we drove through various towns, we concluded that Nicaragua is just another Third World slum. Life is tough in a country dependent on coffee, cotton and cattle that bring minimal wealth. The only deviation we made was to drive to the rim of a volcanic crater lake which was still active! We peered over the edge, looking into the depths of the crater lake as it let out clouds of misty smoke. Quite extraordinary. Our destination was Granada which was described in our route notes as being the jewel of Nicaragua. As we had become used to ‘estate agent’ hype, we were not surprised to discover that in fact it is a first class dump. Pity our hotel was rationed as far as electricity was concerned. Even a generator kept cutting out, plunging everyone into darkness. At least we had a candle-lit dinner. Fortunately power was restored by 9pm otherwise we would have had a sleepless night in a stifling hot room without air conditioning. Day 29 Tues 5th December Granada-San Jose 465km/290m Last night Paul generously gave $10 to a lad who made a bad job of washing the Pick-up in the dark. This morning at 5.45 am the lad was asleep on the pavement next to our vehicle. We had been warned that this was a long day with over 10 hours of driving without any stops, so we left at 6.15 am, arriving at the border between Nicaragua and Costa Rica at 7.30 am. Formalities took 1½ hours. Once into Costa Rica we were delighted to find no litter, no squalor, no scrap cars, clean rivers and proper toilet facilities at garages. In fact we were almost back to normality. We spent an hour over lunch at a recommended German bakery, then opted to miss one of six suggested visitor attractions in an attempt to reach our destination before dark. The weather deteriorated from being cloudy to drizzly rain and fog as we climbed to 2,000m/6,500 feet around Volcan Poas. The road was very twisty, steep and full of slow traffic with very few over-taking opportunities. We had been warned that, as we approached the capital of San Jose, the last 150km/93 miles would take three hours. In fact it took us four hours, the last 10km/6miles to the hotel taking a full hour. It was a crazy day, with so many good attractions to visit yet no time to stop. Taking us into a major city with horrendous traffic problems was madness, only to drive out again at dawn the next morning. We were the first to arrive at 6pm, others not turning up until 9pm. Paul skipped dinner as he was suffering from another attack of gout. Day 30 Wed. 6th December San Jose-El Bambito 489km/304m Another long day with our final border crossing from Costa Rica to Panama. Paul was brilliant at getting through border posts quickly. There were always helpers who, for a few dollars, would guide you through the various procedures, leading you to the right counters and even jumping queues. Despite not speaking the language, Paul was able to build up a rapport, cracking jokes and getting the helpers on his side. Costa Rica is Latin America’s purest democracy. It has the highest standard of living in Central America, the highest literacy rate at 95%, the second lowest birth rate and the greatest degree of economic and social advancement. However, our experience of the awful traffic, particularly in the capital, indicates that, by Western standards, it still has a long way to go. Its main attractions are the countryside, nature and wildlife. There was no time and no opportunity to stop for lunch today. On the road at 6 am to beat the San Jose traffic, we made slow progress until mid-morning. We encountered the worst weather so far, with cloud and heavy drizzle as we climbed to 3,350m/11,000 feet around Volcan Irazu. On the descent a curtain was drawn back and suddenly we were back into sunshine. The only suggested stop was at some botanical gardens but few plants were in flower so this was somewhat disappointing. It did, though, give us an opportunity to eat a delicious water melon which we had purchased the previous day from a roadside stall and which we shared with the Gibbons and the Meiers. Back on the road we saw acres and acres of pineapples. At one point on a fast twisty downhill section we caught up a bunch of cyclists travelling at 80kph/50mph. It was very difficult to overtake them, as they formed a mobile barrier, cutting corners and using the middle of the road. Eventually we got in front of them, only to be slowed by other traffic. Awaiting an over-taking opportunity, one of the cylists overtook us, still moving at 50mph! The border crossing into Panama took less than an hour. Whilst queuing up at one of the many counters, we tried to satisfy our hunger by sharing a small tin of peaches. We advanced our clocks by one hour before setting off again northwards along a fairly narrow twisty asphalt road, following the border between Costa Rica and Panama. It was pleasing to see roadside ditches and verges full of colourful bizzy-lizzies. A winding scenic road through cattle country and coffee plantations eventually brought us to our hotel in a mountain resort on the slopes of Volcan Baru where we indulged in a late afternoon lunch. Day 31 Thursday 7th December El Bambito-Panama City 567km 354m Our last day. Some crews opted to take the Interamericana Highway direct to Panama City whilst we opted to take one of two 4x4 loops which included two 50cm/20 inch deep river crossings. Prior to this we came upon the Howells changing a puncture at the side of the road. We stopped to help them. This was their 6th puncture. They had been unable to buy their normal Goodrich tyres prior to the event and were running on Grappa tyres which were far from puncture-resistant. We made a short deviation to visit a cigar factory which was very interesting. Lunch, which consisted of some cheese, biscuits and a banana taken from the breakfast table, was eaten on the move once we had joined the main highway for the final leg into Panama City. It was very interesting crossing the Panama Canal on a high bridge leading to the city centre where many high rise buildings, some with 65 stories, dominated the waterfront. His Brownship, wearing a light coloured suit and large Panama hat, flagged all crews through a Finish Banner precisely at the pre-arranged time of 5pm despi te the fact that the heavens opened and he got drenched. He is a stickler for time. That evening we were all taken by coach to the Miraflore restaurant which has a large terrace overlooking the Panama Canal. Everybody was enthralled, watching huge vessels negotiating the various locks which connect two oceans. The Canal is open 24/7 and can even accommodate cruise liners which have to pay up to ¼ million dollars to pass through. We enjoyed a good meal after which the results of a photo competition were announced, then each participant received a souvenier award. It was an appropriate venue to end this 4x4 Aventure Drive through Mexico & Central America. Friday 8th December Having washed the car and taken it to the shippers, we were free to explore Panama City and to find out more about this country. The crossing point to South America, Panama used to be part of Colombia, linked by the ominous and daunting Darien Gap. Its strategic importance as a bridge between two oceans has given Panama a global role. After years of wrangling the U.S. finally handed over the running of the inter-ocean Panama Canal in January 2000. The ‘Big Ditch’ has always been at the heart of Panama, but the country is changing, letting go of its past and exploring new ground as a destination for adventurous travellers such as ourselves. Panama is a paradise for fishermen and bird lovers alike, there are fine beaches and beautiful islands along both Atlantic and Pacific coasts. Diving is the best developed sport, the coral reefs being similar to those of Belize and Honduras. Summary Our Nissan Navara Pick-up proved ultra reliable, requiring no attention whatsoever and using no oil over the total distance of 7,400 miles. It lacked the power to over-take and was slow uphill but we were quicker than the others on the twisty sections, particularly downhill. We were also slower over the bumpy bits where the Land Rovers in particular were very quick. Overall the Toyota Land Cruisers were the most suitable being equally quick, in the right hands, over rough & smooth terrain, uphill and down dale. We were very pleased with the effectiveness of the vents fitted either side of our canopy, thus keeping out most of the dust which had been such a nuisance in Southern Africa. We would have melted had it not been for the air-conditioning. Best Day – boat trip around Belize islands. Likes
Dislikes
We achieved our objective of completing the route safely without any major dramas or incidents. We are pleased that we have thoroughly explored Mexico and Central America a region we have not previously visited. Mission accomplished. Jayne & Paul Wignall 9th December 2006 A Janet & John Story from afar. Today Janet and John are going to see some crocodiles. John is very excited. Janet says to John, hurry up John, I’m driving today so you can tell me where to go. John keeps his thoughts to himself. Soon they spot a local peasant selling fruit at the side of the road. Shall we buy some fruit John?, says Janet Yes, says John, do lets. The fruit seller Mr Gomez has water melons, mangos, coconuts and all kinds of other nuts. Have you got big nuts, asks Janet? Non comprende, says Mr Gomez. Janet and John bought some nuts and got on their way. There’s a terrible wind outside, remarked Janet, as she sped down the straight road. I should think there’s a lot of wind in Mexico, said John, I mean with all the beans they eat it’s not surprising. In fact I would go so far to guess that there is a hole in the Ozone layer above Mexico. Perhaps they ought to get Mr Blair down here to give them a lecture on Global Waming and the effect gas has, he likes interefering with other people’s business and telling them what to do. That’s enough of that, said Janet, we don’t want to spoil our holiday by talkng about Mr Blair, do we John. As lunchtime approached Janet and John finally arrived at the day’s highlight, the Sumidero Canyon where John was going to have a special treat and see a crocodile. But first they drove round the rim of the canyon. Gosh, said John, looking down from the rim of the canyon, that must be 1000 metres down to the river. Yes, said Janet, it wouldn’t do to fall over there, do step back John, I would hate you to fall! Janet and John had lunch in the café and were soon joined by Mr Brown and the Medicine Man, Mr Brown ordered double ham and eggs. John had ham and eggs and as he had been especially good, Janet allowed him to have some ‘Papas Fritas’ Half an hour after leaving the lunch halt Janet and John arrived at the boat station, and were soon on a high speed launch on their trip up the canyon. The boatman stopped after a while to show them some exotic Mexican Birds, these were the first John had seen, though he thought he had spotted a couple in Mexico City. The boatman pointed out a large chested Mexican Vulture and John’s thoughts turned immediatley to Mrs Bickersdyke. Look, Look, cried Janet, there’s a crocodile, and the boatman pulled the boat close in to the shore so they could get a good view of the Crocodile. John said, I think he looks like Gordon Brown. The thick skin, the menacing evil grin, just lying there waiting to get another bite at John’s wages with another stealth tax., That’s enough John, no politics said Janet. Soon the boat was speeding up the canyon again, and John gazed skywards to see the rim they had peered over just an hour before. I don’t think I have seen anything as large as this, said John. Neither have I, said Janet. I expect Mrs Bickersdyke has though, replied John. She had told John how much she liked big things when they were stoking, on the steam train trip last year. All too soon the boat ride came to an end. Did you enjoy that John, asked Janet. Oh yes thank you, said John. Can we do it again? No John, not today, said Janet, we need to get on our way and have a look at some old Mexican towns. Oh that will be fun, said John, and so they finished the day with a trip to Zincatan and Chamula , two old Mexican towns where the natives still wear their traditional dress. Whilst they were there some Mexican children came up to the car begging. Wind down the window and offer them one of your jelly babies said Janet, where upon the little devils seized the lot and ran off. Janet promised to find him some more as soon as they got to another town. Basil and Brenda on tour in Mexico. Basil and Brenda Arkwright are from oop North, they have recently sold their mobile welding business and have joined up with Mr Brown and his group on this Tour of Mexico. They have not been abroad before but have, like the others on this trip, shipped a four-wheel drive vehicle across to do trip in. Most others have a large 4x4, Basil has sent his old pick-up truck, but had ‘’Arcright with Arkwright’ painted out as he didn’t think it would be any use advertising a mobile welding business he no longer owned to the Mexicans who couldn’t read English anyhow! Most of the buggers haven’t got a house let alone a ‘phone so couldn’t ring him anyway, and if they did he couldn’t understand Spanish so that settled it, no advertising on the truck. Let’s join them as they set out on Day 11. Eh up Brenda luv, it’s your turn t’bloody drive, I can’t any road up, that bloody Mexican red wine has brought me gout back, and ah don’t think I can press ‘tclutch. Alright Basil dear, anything you say. Basil was still feeling grumpy after last evening’s group dinner. He had felt ill at ease, most people were talking about their house abroad, or the last race or rally they did in their, or even worse one of their, classic cars, or dropping into see friends at Monte Carlo. All Basil had to talk about was his brace of racing pigeons and his whippet Eric. Mind you he bet they hadn’t had a first overall in the West Riding Pigeon Fanciers short handicap race from Batly to Huddersfield, and neither would they have a Whippet that had come first in the Doncaster Whippet Boxing Day Cup. By heck, Eric had run a grand race that day. His mind soon came back to business when they passed yet another field of rusty scrap cars. ‘Crikey Brenda’, what I couldn’t do round here with an oxyacetelyne cutter and some good welding rods. We could make our own classic car, ha,ha he laughed. ‘Ave a look in’t road book Basil and tell us what’s in store, said Brenda. OK luv, lets ‘ave a loook. We’ve 325 miles to do, we can see millions of Monarch butterflies in one of three butterfly sancturaries and then visit a Volcano and drive up the crater at 13,870ft, after that we arrive in Mexico City. 20million people, bloody hell, said Basil, that’s bigger than Bradford, Leeds and Huddersfield put together, what’s traffic gonna be like? Oooh, the butterflies sound nice said Brenda. Aye, said Basil, but wi’ 325 miles to do we can’t do both Butterflies and Volcano, we can see butterflies in England , in fact they have ruined my spring cabbage for the last two years, not to mention me sprouts, so I’ve ‘ad enough of bloody butterflies so lets go t’volcano. So t’ volcano they went. Along the way they passed through a very fertile area. Eh, look at that Brenda, a greenhouse full of Poncietas,, eh there’s another one and another, blimey there’s hundreds of the buggers. I wonder whose going to buy all those, said Brenda. I’m sure the Mexicans won’t want all of them. Marks and bloody Spencer and Tesco’s , that’s who, said Basil, I bet that lot will be in England in the next couple of weeks. They drove on, Basil becoming anxious that they wouldn’t get to the Volcano before it closed at 3pm. Then the traffic got worse, it was Friday afternoon and a holiday week end, the traffic was heavy. ‘Bout time we filled up with diesel, said Brenda, anyway I’m dying to go! There’s a Pemex in 10 ks, said Basil (all petrol in Mexico being state owned and run by Pemex). Whilst Bert filled up, Brenda answered the call of nature. Eventually she returned. You’ll never guess what they do ‘ere Basil. What’s that luv? They charge you for the bloody toilet paper before you go in! Bloody hell, said Basil, I hope Gordon Bloody Brown doesn’t get to hear of that one and start doing the same in Britain, that would be scraping the bottom! Eventually at 3.15 they finally made it to the volcano to find the gate still open. Pay the man,Basil, and lets get up this mountain, 16 kms and 13000 feet to climb on a gravel road. Do you think you are up to it Brenda, said Basil.
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